Easter in Ionian Islands

CORFU (KERKYRA)

On Palm Sunday at 11 in the morning, the procession of the sacred relics of St Spyridon takes place. This procession is being held since 1630, in remembrance of the deliverance of the island from the dreadful plague epidemic which cost the lives of so many Corfiots in 1629. The procession is the largest on the island, with no fewer than 14 bands taking part.
At 4 p.m. on Good Friday, the imposing procession of the bier of Christ (epitaphios) sets out from the Church of St George at the Old Fortress. Until 9.30 in the evening the epitaphios of each separate church emerges, together with the inevitable band, choirs and girls with baskets full of multi-coloured sweetly-smelling flowers. The last epitaphios to emerge, at 09.30 in the evening, is that of the Cathedral. In all its grandeur, it is accompanied by bands playing solemn music (such as the adagio of Albinoni), the great choir of the Cathedral, the clergy, and the local officials.
In the Church of Our lady "of the Strangers" it is tradition to create an "imitation earthquake". This happens at 6 in the morning of Holy Saturday - after the reading of the Epistle - and symbolises the earthquake which is described in the Gospel as a triumphal sequel to the Lord's Resurrection.
On the same day, at 9 a.m., the epitaphios procession of the Church of St Spyridon takes place. In 1574 the Venetians prohibited the Orthodox from holding their epitaphios procession on Good Friday, so ever since the procession from the Church of St Spyridon, which includes the sacred relics of the Saint, has taken place on this day. This is an ancient and deeply devotional procession held to commemorate a miracle performed by the Saint to save the people of Corfu from famine. The Saint, in the form of his relics, goes first and is treated as the presiding bishop in the procession. He is followed by the epitaphios. The pace of the procession is set by the solemn music of three of the town's bands. By tradition, the funeral march from Hamlet, by the Italian composer Faccio, is played at the Town Hall by the "Old Philharmonic" band. This is followed by another funeral march - Calde Lacrime (Hot Tears) - by the Italian Michelli played by the Mantzaros band, and, finally, the funeral march from the Eroica of Beethoven by the Capodistrias band.
After the procession, the Saint remains at the door of his church for veneration until Easter Tuesday. At 11 a. m. on Holy Saturday, the people of Corfu await the "First Resurrection". When the service ends in the Cathedral, all the church bells are rung, and thousands of earthenware vessels are thrown from the windows of the houses into the streets with a great crash. This custom has its roots in the biblical passage "Thou, O Lord, raise me up, that I may crush them as a potter's vessel".
Another old Corfiot Easter custom, which has been revived by the Organisation for Corfiot Public Events is the "mastelo" (barrel).
In the "Pinia" area, below the metal pine cone which still hangs there at the junction of Nikiforou Theotoki and Philarmonikis str., the porters (the "Piniadori") of the town used to gather and place a wooden barrel in the middle of the pavement. They would decorate it with myrtles and greenery and fill it with water. Then they would spread out into the surrounding area, asking passers-by, always numerous at that time, to throw money into the barrel and make a wish. When the time for the "First Resurrection" came, the "Piniadori" would hunt somebody down in the Piazza area to put into the barrel. He, in turn, would splash water on everyone around, while the bands passed playing the allegro march "Fear not, Greeks". Amid fun and laughter, the man in the barrel would get out, collecting the money in it.
On the evening of Holy Saturday, the Resurrection service is held in the Upper Square. This is a unique spectacle. All the windows of the surrounding houses are open, with candles burning in them. Added to these is the memorable sight of the thousands of candles held in the hands of the faithful who are attending the service in the largest square in Greece - a magnificent picture. The Resurrection service is continued in the Church of St Paraskevi (Kantouni Square).
On Easter Sunday, from 7 in the morning, each church, just as in the case of the epitaphios, holds its own Resurrection ceremony, with bands, schoolchildren, scouts, and choirs.
At noon, the naval base at the New Fortress continues tradition as the scene of celebrations, with dance groups and generous refreshments.
MUNICIPALITY : tel .: 26610 32685.

ZAKYNTHOS

The celebration of Holy Week on Zakynthos island is considered to be unique and unforgettable both for locals and visitors. At noon, on Good Friday, crowds of worshippers take part in the procession of the Crucified through the town. In the early hours of Holy Saturday morning and starting from the "Saint Nicolas" Cathedral Church the epitaph procession takes place (in accordance with the ancient custom), while the Bishop announces the Resurrection at sunrise.
MUNICIPALITY : tel. : 26950 22315.

LEFKADA

In Lefkada, on the evening of Good Friday the epitaphios processions of the various parishes, accompanied by the local band, occupy the town's main street, ending in the traditional, Venetian-style, central square.
On Holy Saturday morning, the band plays rousing tunes in the streets of the town, while the housewives throw earthenware vessels from their windows.
MUNICIPALITY : tel.: 26450 23352.